Friday, October 28, 2011

Update

I know, I know, I haven't posted in a while. But hey, I've been busy!

I am doing great and still loving being in Turkey. For all of you who contacted me concerned about my safety after the earthquake, thank you. I am fine! Istanbul is about 800 miles away from where the earthquake hit near Van, so I didn't even feel anything.


The earthquake was a measured at 7.2-magnitude and so far 535 people have died and 2,300 people were injured. Rescue crews are still searching for survivors. Yesterday, they found an 18-year old boy 100 hours after the earthquake. Check it out: http://www.cnn.com/2011/10/27/world/europe/turkey-quake/index.html?hpt=wo_c1.

Although I am in Turkey, I haven't felt like the country is recovering from a natural disaster. Apart from what I've been reading on CNN, The New York Times, and Hürriyet Daily News, I haven't heard much about the earthquake here. Even in class professors haven't mentioned it. It reminds me of what my brother Miles said about being in Japan during the earthquake. He too was in a town far away from where the earthquake hit. The people of Istanbul are going about their everyday lives, seemingly unaffected.

However, what has been affecting the people of Istanbul is the Kurdistan Worker's Party, or PKK, attack on Turkish soldiers on October 19th. The outlawed PKK killed 24 soldiers in eight simultaneous attacks in the Kazan Valley in the border district of Çukurca. The PKK is a Kurdish organization which has been fighting an armed struggle against Turkey since 1984 for an autonomous Kurdistan and greater rights for the Kurds in Turkey. The PKK is recognized as a terrorist organization by the US and EU. The issue of Kurdish nationalism in Turkey is especially important right now in light of Turkey's public support for an independent Palestine. 

On October 19th and in the days that followed, there were rallies and protests all over the streets of Istanbul. I was in Taksim Square on October 19th to see a jazz concert, and there was a large group of Turkish people marching down Istiklal Avenue waving Turkish flags and chanting words that I could not understand, but could only guess were nationalist sentiments. Later that night, my friends and I saw hundreds of yellow taxis driving together through the streets honking and also waving Turkish flags.



The Turkish people and government responded to the PKK attacks with anger and a thirst for revenge. Turkish Prime Minister Erdoğan said, "This nation will never forget those who have not denounced such brutal terror acts." Turkey has since launched a counterattack of 22 battalions and 10,000 soldiers on the PKK in Kazan Valley. Four days after the attack, officials claimed that 35 terrorists were killed. As a result of the counterattack and border operations, the PKK has evacuated the villages and retreated.

With all that said, Turkey's media is censored and it is difficult to discern the truth. Some have said the PKK killed much more Turkish soldiers than government officials have reported. I am not sure what to believe. All I know is that I hope the Turkish government isn't reading my blog...

Monday, October 10, 2011

Continuation of Ephesus Post: Selçuk and Around

After spending the morning in Ephesus, Ari, Chance, and I headed back to Selçuk where we visited the Ephesus Musem, the Isa Bei Camii, and the Basilica of Saint John.

The Ephesus Museum houses artifacts from the ancient city.

Statues

 Coins (I know, pretty self-explanatory)


Me and My Best Friend, Emperor Domitian

The Isa Bei Camii was built in 1375 by the Emir of Aydin in a post-Seljuk and pre-Ottoman transitional style (yes I copied that from Lonely Planet).


Isa Bei Camii

Saint John is said to have come to Ephesus between 37 and 48 AD with the Virgin Mary and then again towards the end of his life in 95 AD. His tomb with his remains is believed to be in Ephesus, so in the 6th century Emperor Justinian built an awesome ("awesome" in its literal meaning) church on top of it. 


Being Cool

Being Artsy with Ari

Saint John's Tomb

Saturday, October 8, 2011

Kol Nidre

At 18:37 yesterday evening in Istanbul, Yom Kippur began. Yom Kippur is the Jewish Day of Atonement.

I decided not to go to Synagogue for Kol Nidre because I thought I would be able to concentrate on praying more by staying home and watching a previously recorded service online. I chose to watch Rabbi Naomi Levy and the Nashuva community in L.A. celebrate Yom Kippur in 2009. This was the most recent version I could find on the Jewish TV Network. Here is the link if you would like to check it out: http://jewishtvnetwork.com/highHolidays/.

I liked the Neshuva service for the most part. Rabbi Naomi (great name) gave an funny, passionate, and original sermon, and the music compositions were creative and entertaining. But it is always hard to attend or watch a service of a community that you are not familiar with. I grew up going to services at Temple Emanu-El in Honolulu, Hawaii and at URJ Camp Newman-Swig in Santa Rosa, California. Both communities are reformed Jewish communities that incorporate musical instruments into their services and read aloud English translations to and along with Hebrew chants and prayers. I chose to watch this particular service because it seemed the most similar to the type of service I am used to. While I was right in that regard, it was still hard to watch because I am not part of the Neshuva community.

I am sure Rabbi Naomi would argue that I am part of the Jewish community and therefore her community, and although that makes logical sense, that was not how I felt when I started watching the service. It is not that I felt uninvited or unwelcome. On the contrary, Neshuva and many other Jewish communities across the United States welcome thousands of Jews to watch services from around the world on the Jewish TV Network. In 2009, 220,000 people watched the Neshuva service live on the internet. I can't speak for them of course, but personally in the beginning I felt like I did not belong. Rabbi Naomi led prayers in tunes that I had never heard before and in an order I was taught was incorrect. For me this highlighted the fact that Judaism, like many other religions, has so many variations that it is difficult to define a Jewish identity. There are distinct religious variations, but also variations in ethnicity, geography, economics, culture, and politics. Indeed, there are Orthodox Jews in Israel that would deny my Judaism because it is so different from theirs. I don't blame them. The way in which I celebrate my religion is so reformed and so far from what the Torah describes as Jewish ritual and tradition. However, no one follows the Torah exactly. And the Torah contradicts itself all the time, which makes it impossible to follow exactly anyway. So the question becomes is someone who follows the Torah closely more Jewish than someone who follows the Torah loosely? Who is considered Jewish?

Are these questions even helpful? I am not sure if they are because while I consider myself Jewish and the Neshuva community considers itself Jewish, in the beginning I still felt like I did not belong. Perhaps you picked up on my past tense, as I have been referring to "when I started watching the service" and "in the beginning of the service." It is true that at first I felt like I did not belong in the Neshuva community, which made me question if I belong in the Jewish community. And then I heard Ki Anu Amecha and other prayers that I could not help but sing along to. During Ashamnu I stood up and hit my fist against my chest and heart, reminding myself of all the sins I have committed and asking God for forgiveness. In moments like these towards the end of the service, I felt I was a part of the Neshuva community and the Jewish community as a whole. Instead of focusing on what separates Jews, I focused on what brings them together.

For me, it was traditional prayers that are the same for all Jews that brought the Jewish community together for Yom Kippur. But what will it be tomorrow?

When I was preparing for my Bat Mitzvah in 2003, my mother gave me a list of quotes about Judaism and the Torah to study. One of them was from the story in the Talmud (Shabbos 31 A): A gentile approached Rabbi Shammai and asked the Rabbi to teach him the Torah while he stands on one foot. Rabbi Shammai thought that the man was not serious and chased him away. The gentile then approached Hillel with the same question but was met with a very different reaction - Hillel agreed. He said, "This is our Holy Torah: 'What is hateful to you, do not do unto others... That's the meaning of the whole Torah. All the rest is only an explanation of that. Go, go, my son. Go and study it.'"

The whole Torah, the ideology of Judaism, and the base of the Jewish religion rests on the golden rule for all of humanity: Treat others the way you want to be treated; Treat your neighbor as yourself.

The Torah is what brings Jews together, the Torah is the golden rule, and the golden rule is what brings humanity together. The Jewish community is just one community in the community of communities that we all belong to.

I know these statements make me sound dramatic, a little pretentious, and also kinda dumb. All I really said is that we are all part of this world and we should be nice to each other. But it was a good feeling for me to go from watching a service of a community that I did not feel I belonged to, and then remembering all the things I just wrote about, to finally feeling like I belonged to the Jewish community and consequently the world community. I hope that didn't sound like I'm saying the Jewish community is the world community. I just meant the teachings of the Jews are the same as the teachings for humanity. I also forgot to mention that I spent a full 24 hours alone in my apartment yesterday fasting and doing a whole lot of nothing. I need to wrap this post up before I ramble even more... Sorry if reading this was a waste of your time. I'm sorry for anything I may have done to you in the past. I'm sorry I have not had the courage to apologize. And I'm sorry if I have not realized that I need to apologize.

My (Old) Apartment

This should have been one of my very first posts. But oh well, here it is now.

Before you scroll down and look at the beautiful pictures of where I am currently living, I just want to say that yes I know I am very spoiled and yes I am very happy about it and no I don't care that I am spoiled because I am happy :). 

Entrance to the Kitchen and Living Room

Kitchen (which has every useful appliance... except a microwave)

Alcohol

Seating Area

Bookshelf and other Pretty Things

Study Area

Desk

Outside

The Building

Tree House and Grass (that grew in one week, no joke)

Patio

So now that you have all gawked at and been terribly jealous of (and perhaps cried about?) the pictures of my apartment, let me explain why I am living here and why the title of this post says "old" in parentheses. 

My two other roommates, Ari and Shumita, and I rented this apartment for one month until we figured out other living arrangements. The apartment belongs to the Köprülü family, who are family friends of Ari's parents, and they did us a favor and let us stay here temporarily for just a fraction of the normal rent. 

The Köprülü family was a noble family in the Ottoman Empire and provided six Grand Viziers as well as a number of high-ranking officers to the state. Nina Köprülü and her husband Murat live in New York City but spend their summers on the Bosphorus in a beautiful house as well as in this apartment. 

I am so thankful that I had the opportunity to live in this quaint apartment in Bebek. The reason why the title of this post says "old" is because we are moving out of this apartment on Monday morning. Shumita found a sublet in Ortakoy, and Ari and I decided to stay in Bebek and move into another one of Ari's family friends' apartments. I have not seen it yet but I have heard it has a view of the Bosphorus... check back soon to see pictures of my "new" apartment.